How important is a dog name? Well let's think about this.
How often do you call your dog? Who will hear your dog's name? Will you be writing to anyone about this dog?
Now that you think about the times you'll use the name, maybe you should put some thought into what that dog name is.
I mean, if you have a Great Dane who weighs 120 lbs, you might not want to call him something like Baby or Tiny. Or you might... it's a personal thing. Personally, Tiny would be hilarious to me.
I can just imagine calling, "Tiny, come here boy!" While a neighbor is watching and for the first time sees this "Tiny." Now that could be an interesting look to receive!
Maybe you have a dog that has a bit of a fiesty side nd you think it's a good idea to call him "Killer." Maybe you weren't thinking about the little old lady that lives by herself next door... waiting for "Killer" to go home so she can get to the grocery store.
Are these extremes? Of course! But, haven't you heard some dog names that just didn't seem... right?
My dogs have some sort of silly names. Actually, my Black Lab, Sadie, had a carefully chosen name. I was pregnant with my first child when we got Sadie. She was six weeks old and clever as they come.
Sadie was very majestic in all her movements and attitudes. So, we decided to look at our baby name book and see what we could come up with to suit her.
Sadie is actually a pet form of Sarah, which means "lady" or "princess" in Hebrew.
It totally fit her and is the best suited dog name I think we could have given her.
Two of her sons, however, were not so fortunate. See, two years ago Sadie had a litter of 7 pups, which we did not intend to keep. We already had four dogs and didn't need any more.
We cared for the pups though and watched them grow each day. My husband and I would swap stories about the cute little things they did.
The dogs all looked so much alike that we found it confusing to talk about them without names. Eventually, names started emerging on their own.
For example, there was one brown dog in the mix. (How he got this color and look is a mystery.) So we called him Brownie. Not the cleverest of names, but it helped us identify him.
Next there was Tipper and Bubba, who we ended up keeping. Tipper has a tiny patch of white on the tips of his front paws... hence the name "Tipper."
Bubba, as his name might suggest, is a big brute. He's the biggest and the meanest of the litter.
But, if we knew we were going to keep these guys, we might have gone a different route in choosing a dog name. Bubba doesn't exactly say, "Son of a princess," but his attitude definitely does.
So here are some examples of the different ways a dog name can make a difference.
My advice? Think about all the times you'll use the name. Find out a little about who your dog is before giving him a name. And, think of yourself 10 years older than you are now... will you still like to say that name and think... I chose that?
About the author:
About Author :
:
Tina Spriggs is an expert dog lover whose lifelong interest in canines provides the motivation for her site. To learn more about dogs or to find gifts and toys for them visit her site at Dog Gifts and Toys for Dog Lovers.
Copyright 2004. All rights reserved.
from : http://www.articlefreefree.com/articles1323-a-dog-name-is-something-to-be-chosen-carefully.html
วันอังคารที่ 25 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2550
Barking Problems
All dogs bark, it’s their way to communicate a message. Dog barks for various reasons: to greet, to alert, out of boredom, to attract attention or when they are excited. Although some barking from is acceptable, too much barking is certainly annoying, especially for your neighbors and eventually leading to complains. The easiest way to stop a problematic barker is to control his barking while you are at home: 1. Set up a situation where your dog will always bark. For example, you can ask someone to ring your doorbell or knock on your door. 2. When your dog charges to the door and start to bark loudly, approach your dog, grab his collar and give the command “quiet” – no shouting please, it doesn’t help. 3. If he stops barking, praise and reward. He’s a genius and deserves it. 4. When he continues barking, close his mouth with your hand, wrap your fingers around his muzzle – use both hands if needed, and give the command for him to keep quiet. Praise if he stops. Most dogs would be able to learn the “quiet” command with repeated training like this. Set up similar situations to "lure" your dog to bark and repeat training whenever possible. If you happen to own a hard-core persistent barker, use this method: 1. Vinegar-Water solution – mix a proportion of 7/8 water & 1/8 vinegar together. Pour the mixture into a water pistol or what kids call “super soaker” for longer distance shooting. 2. Aim and shoot at his chest whenever he can’t stop barking even on your command. Dogs hate the smell of vinegar and would usually back off and stop barking. He’ll even sneeze a few times. It’s harmless so you need not worry. 3. As always, praise him when he stops barking. For your information, your dog might still be barking noisily and disrupting your neighborhood when you are not at home. In this case, you’ll need a training equipment known as “bark collars” to help train him. There are several types of bark collars on the market. Some of these collars send an electric shock to your dog when he barks, some make a high pitch sound or emits a squirt of citronella which is annoying but safe for your dog. Usually, these collars can help you solve a problematic barker. Personally, I’ll recommend the high pitch sound or citronella collars. They are very effective and more humane dog training tools.
About Author :
Moses Chia is a dog lover and owner of http://DogsObedienceTraining.com – The dog training resource site for a happier and healthier dog. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.
from : http://www.articlefreefree.com/articles1324-barking-problems.html
About Author :
Moses Chia is a dog lover and owner of http://DogsObedienceTraining.com – The dog training resource site for a happier and healthier dog. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.
from : http://www.articlefreefree.com/articles1324-barking-problems.html
วันเสาร์ที่ 22 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2550
Poodles - One Adorable Dog In Many Convenient Sizes
People love their poodles! A very popular but often misunderstood breed of dog, the poodle has been with us for centuries. Artifacts from ancient Egypt and Rome have been found bearing the images of poodles engaged in such activities as herding animals, retrieving game animals (small game animals, of course - especially birds), and assisting the dragging of game nets. In fact, the intentional breeding of various sized poodles (the American Kennel Club or AKC recognizes three sizes of poodles - Standard, Miniature, and Toy - which are all considered to be the same breed) likely dates back hundreds of years as opposed to other types of dogs which were bred this way only recently. Suffice to say that there have been oodles of poodles roaming the Earth for a very long time.
Defining the Poodles' Sizes
The three sizes of poodle have distinct definitions according to the AKC. For purposes of competition in dog shows, the different sizes are determined by the poodle's height at the shoulder. Standard poodles are defined by being taller than fifteen inches at the shoulder. Miniature poodles must stand no more than fifteen inches but more than ten inches at the shoulder, and Toy poodles must be ten inches or less. Recently breeders have been offering Teacup poodles as well. While the AKC does not recognize the Teacup distinction, most breeders consider a poodle that stands eight inches or less at the shoulder when full grown to be a Teacup poodle. Teacup poodles are proving to be very popular and fetch some of the higher prices for poodle pups.
Poodle Popularity
The popularity of poodles is particularly due to a plethora of pleasant attributes in poodle personalities. Poodles are proud dogs and usually very active. It is said that the poodle carries an air of regal dignity unseen in other breeds of dog. Some poodles, however, can be exceptionally shy while others may be very cross creatures. These are the exception rather than the rule. Generally speaking, pet poodles please people.
Primping the Poodle
Poodle grooming is nearly an art form and there are four generally accepted styles used for show poodles. These are called "show quality clips" and generally include shaping the poodle's coat to exact specifications in some areas while completely shaving other areas. These four show quality poodle cuts are the Puppy Show Clip, English Saddle Clip, Continental Clip, and Sporting Clip. In addition to these there are five common "pet quality" poodle clips that are employed with non-show dogs. They are known as the Kennel Clip, Dutch Clip (there are two styles of Dutch clip), Bikini Clip, and Puppy Pet Clip.
For those thinking about becoming poodle owners, the AKC has plenty of information on what to look for in a purebred poodle. The can help potential poodle procurers avoid unnecessary poodle pitfalls and start on the road to a long and happy relationship of poodle puppy love.
About Author :Kirsten Hawkins is a dog lover and animal expert from Nashville, TN. Visit http://www.doghealth411.com/ for more information on dog health, the care of dogs, and dog travel
Defining the Poodles' Sizes
The three sizes of poodle have distinct definitions according to the AKC. For purposes of competition in dog shows, the different sizes are determined by the poodle's height at the shoulder. Standard poodles are defined by being taller than fifteen inches at the shoulder. Miniature poodles must stand no more than fifteen inches but more than ten inches at the shoulder, and Toy poodles must be ten inches or less. Recently breeders have been offering Teacup poodles as well. While the AKC does not recognize the Teacup distinction, most breeders consider a poodle that stands eight inches or less at the shoulder when full grown to be a Teacup poodle. Teacup poodles are proving to be very popular and fetch some of the higher prices for poodle pups.
Poodle Popularity
The popularity of poodles is particularly due to a plethora of pleasant attributes in poodle personalities. Poodles are proud dogs and usually very active. It is said that the poodle carries an air of regal dignity unseen in other breeds of dog. Some poodles, however, can be exceptionally shy while others may be very cross creatures. These are the exception rather than the rule. Generally speaking, pet poodles please people.
Primping the Poodle
Poodle grooming is nearly an art form and there are four generally accepted styles used for show poodles. These are called "show quality clips" and generally include shaping the poodle's coat to exact specifications in some areas while completely shaving other areas. These four show quality poodle cuts are the Puppy Show Clip, English Saddle Clip, Continental Clip, and Sporting Clip. In addition to these there are five common "pet quality" poodle clips that are employed with non-show dogs. They are known as the Kennel Clip, Dutch Clip (there are two styles of Dutch clip), Bikini Clip, and Puppy Pet Clip.
For those thinking about becoming poodle owners, the AKC has plenty of information on what to look for in a purebred poodle. The can help potential poodle procurers avoid unnecessary poodle pitfalls and start on the road to a long and happy relationship of poodle puppy love.
About Author :Kirsten Hawkins is a dog lover and animal expert from Nashville, TN. Visit http://www.doghealth411.com/ for more information on dog health, the care of dogs, and dog travel
วันศุกร์ที่ 21 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2550
Guinea Pigs Cage Selection - How To Choose The Best Cage For Your Pig
The decision on where to place your guinea pig should be made before you choose a cage so you'll know exactly how much space you will be working with, particularly if you will be keeping your guinea pig indoors. Ideally, your guinea pig's cage should be at least 2 square feet per guinea pig, but the more area you provide for your pet, the happier he or she will be. The height of the cage is not as important. Guinea pigs don't really climb much because of their size so 18 inch walls should be high enough to keep them safely inside a cage.
Many guinea pig owners prefer to have multi-level cages for their pets. While the addition of ramps and other levels may be fun and interesting for the guinea pig, it isn't necessary.
When most people purchase their guinea pig cages, they usually go through a pet store. This can be a mistake for several reasons:
1. You will pay too much! A decent-size guinea pig cage in any pet store will run you around $75 to $100 minimum, which is way too much to spend for what you are getting.
2. You will have to do additional modifications on the cage to make it livable for your guinea pig. Your cage should never have an exposed wood interior (it soaks up the smell of their urine) or an exposed wire bottom (it can hurt their sensitive feet). Many of the cages you purchase in pet stores have these features.
3. You usually won't be able to find a large enough cage. Remember that for one guinea pig, you need at least 2 square feet of cage space. Each additional guinea pig requires between 2 to 4 extra square feet of space. Also, you need to figure in the room for toys, hiding places, and food dishes. Many cage manufactureres will try to fool you by quoting only the exterior size on the box but, because of how it is measured, that can be a foot or more different from the actual amount of room your guinea pig would have inside the cage.
If you do decide to buy a pet store cage for the sake of convenience, be sure to also figure on giving them lots of time to run around on the floor.
The best option regarding guinea pig cages, particularly if you want to keep several together, is to build your own. This may sound difficult, but it truly isn't, especially if you find some helpful instructions to work with. http://Cavycages.com, for example, includes detailed instructions on how to create a safe, roomy cage for your guinea pigs relatively easily and inexpensively. All of the pieces can be purchased in local stores and would cost anywhere from $60 to $90 to create, including the table to sit the cage on. While that may not seem like much of a savings over the pet store variety, you won't have to do any further modifications and you will be giving your guinea pig more than 10 square feet of room to enjoy.
For those guinea pigs who will be staying outside, you will probably want to construct your own hutch as well. Most of the ones currently sold are either not of good quality, have interior exposed wood, or both. Another option is to purchase a metal commerical cage, remove the wire bottom, and place it on a table that is high enough off the ground to prevent other animals from having easy access to the guinea pigs. If you do choose to build your own, avoid using chicken wire and instead opt for welded wire because chicken wire can cause injuries to the animal's mouth if he or she chews on it. However, you do not need to worry about the guinea pig chewing its way through either type of wire.
One final word of caution on choosing a cage: Many pet stores sell aquariums and fish tanks as ideal homes for guinea pigs and other small pets, but this is a definite no-no. Guinea pigs need a well-ventilated cage because the ammonia fumes from their urine can cause them to become ill. Obviously, an aquarium is not well-ventilated and, therefore, should never be used as a home for your guinea pig.
Regardless of the type of cage you buy or make, you'll want to be sure that it is fairly easy to clean. At least once every two weeks, you need to remove everything from the cage and give it a thorough cleaning so be sure you can do that as conveniently as possible. People, even loving pet owners, tend not to do necessary things when they are too much of an inconvenience. About Author :
Florian Ross developed comprehensive guides to help people succeed with their guinea pigs. Find out more about how to have your guinea pig live 2 times longer with his popular free ecourse at => pets-lovers.com
Many guinea pig owners prefer to have multi-level cages for their pets. While the addition of ramps and other levels may be fun and interesting for the guinea pig, it isn't necessary.
When most people purchase their guinea pig cages, they usually go through a pet store. This can be a mistake for several reasons:
1. You will pay too much! A decent-size guinea pig cage in any pet store will run you around $75 to $100 minimum, which is way too much to spend for what you are getting.
2. You will have to do additional modifications on the cage to make it livable for your guinea pig. Your cage should never have an exposed wood interior (it soaks up the smell of their urine) or an exposed wire bottom (it can hurt their sensitive feet). Many of the cages you purchase in pet stores have these features.
3. You usually won't be able to find a large enough cage. Remember that for one guinea pig, you need at least 2 square feet of cage space. Each additional guinea pig requires between 2 to 4 extra square feet of space. Also, you need to figure in the room for toys, hiding places, and food dishes. Many cage manufactureres will try to fool you by quoting only the exterior size on the box but, because of how it is measured, that can be a foot or more different from the actual amount of room your guinea pig would have inside the cage.
If you do decide to buy a pet store cage for the sake of convenience, be sure to also figure on giving them lots of time to run around on the floor.
The best option regarding guinea pig cages, particularly if you want to keep several together, is to build your own. This may sound difficult, but it truly isn't, especially if you find some helpful instructions to work with. http://Cavycages.com, for example, includes detailed instructions on how to create a safe, roomy cage for your guinea pigs relatively easily and inexpensively. All of the pieces can be purchased in local stores and would cost anywhere from $60 to $90 to create, including the table to sit the cage on. While that may not seem like much of a savings over the pet store variety, you won't have to do any further modifications and you will be giving your guinea pig more than 10 square feet of room to enjoy.
For those guinea pigs who will be staying outside, you will probably want to construct your own hutch as well. Most of the ones currently sold are either not of good quality, have interior exposed wood, or both. Another option is to purchase a metal commerical cage, remove the wire bottom, and place it on a table that is high enough off the ground to prevent other animals from having easy access to the guinea pigs. If you do choose to build your own, avoid using chicken wire and instead opt for welded wire because chicken wire can cause injuries to the animal's mouth if he or she chews on it. However, you do not need to worry about the guinea pig chewing its way through either type of wire.
One final word of caution on choosing a cage: Many pet stores sell aquariums and fish tanks as ideal homes for guinea pigs and other small pets, but this is a definite no-no. Guinea pigs need a well-ventilated cage because the ammonia fumes from their urine can cause them to become ill. Obviously, an aquarium is not well-ventilated and, therefore, should never be used as a home for your guinea pig.
Regardless of the type of cage you buy or make, you'll want to be sure that it is fairly easy to clean. At least once every two weeks, you need to remove everything from the cage and give it a thorough cleaning so be sure you can do that as conveniently as possible. People, even loving pet owners, tend not to do necessary things when they are too much of an inconvenience. About Author :
Florian Ross developed comprehensive guides to help people succeed with their guinea pigs. Find out more about how to have your guinea pig live 2 times longer with his popular free ecourse at => pets-lovers.com
Dog Clothes
Some people love to make their dogs as cute as can be. For these folks there are dog clothes. Cute sweaters, doggie tee shirts, dog booties, stylish bandanas, and precocious little hats are among the items people will purchase to adorn their dogs with style. Dressing a dog is more about the owner than the animal, but as long as the clothing isn’t restrictive or overly cumbersome, most dogs don’t mind getting dressed up now and then for a night (or day) on the town and some breeds, especially those that crave attention, quite enjoy it.
The advent of the internet has taken the concept of dressing our dogs to new levels as websites offering all manner of “designer” dog clothing have popped up everywhere. With names like Glamour Dog, Designer Dog Wear, and Paw Printz Boutique (dot com, of course), these sites offer the tops in canine fashion for proud owners to place on their pups.
Years ago it was not uncommon to see a dog in a knit sweater or some other cute clothing article, but today there are nearly as many clothing choices for dogs as there are for people. There are dresses and slacks, raincoats, eyewear, headwear, footwear, and every imaginable item. There is doggie casual wear, for hanging around on the beach, doggie formal wear for those special black tie occasions and even doggie wedding gowns and tuxedos for the wedding of a doggie’s dreams!
In many cases the doggie designer clothing comes complete with a doggie designer price tag. Dog dresses at Glamour Dog dot com, for example, are listed with prices that run from $40.00 (for a to die for Mary Jane dress) to $86.00 (Pretty Pink Formal Dress). Some of these dog clothes cost more than a lot of people spend to dress themselves. But, the sites stay in business. Someone is buying this stuff.
Some personal favorites include the doggie trench coat ($70.00), the various college football jerseys ($25.00), and the 100% cotton doggie bathrobe – perfect for the pooch who wants to emulate Hugh Heffner.
The recent trend in excessive doggie clothing is undoubtedly spurred by the popularity of celebrity dogs like Paris Hilton’s infamous Tinkerbell and Anna Nicole Smith’s Prozac-popping puppy, Sugar Pie. Both pooches are rarely seen in public without some form of attire and the PR pooches are having an influence.
So, if you’re in the market for dog clothes that will turn heads and get your pooch noticed, designer doggie duds may be just what the fashion critic ordered. Just be sure not to combine designer labels or adorn your dog in designs that clash. After all, what could be more gauche?
About Author :Kirsten Hawkins is a dog lover and animal expert from Nashville, TN. Visit http://www.doghealth411.com/ for more information on dog health, the care of dogs, and dog travel
The advent of the internet has taken the concept of dressing our dogs to new levels as websites offering all manner of “designer” dog clothing have popped up everywhere. With names like Glamour Dog, Designer Dog Wear, and Paw Printz Boutique (dot com, of course), these sites offer the tops in canine fashion for proud owners to place on their pups.
Years ago it was not uncommon to see a dog in a knit sweater or some other cute clothing article, but today there are nearly as many clothing choices for dogs as there are for people. There are dresses and slacks, raincoats, eyewear, headwear, footwear, and every imaginable item. There is doggie casual wear, for hanging around on the beach, doggie formal wear for those special black tie occasions and even doggie wedding gowns and tuxedos for the wedding of a doggie’s dreams!
In many cases the doggie designer clothing comes complete with a doggie designer price tag. Dog dresses at Glamour Dog dot com, for example, are listed with prices that run from $40.00 (for a to die for Mary Jane dress) to $86.00 (Pretty Pink Formal Dress). Some of these dog clothes cost more than a lot of people spend to dress themselves. But, the sites stay in business. Someone is buying this stuff.
Some personal favorites include the doggie trench coat ($70.00), the various college football jerseys ($25.00), and the 100% cotton doggie bathrobe – perfect for the pooch who wants to emulate Hugh Heffner.
The recent trend in excessive doggie clothing is undoubtedly spurred by the popularity of celebrity dogs like Paris Hilton’s infamous Tinkerbell and Anna Nicole Smith’s Prozac-popping puppy, Sugar Pie. Both pooches are rarely seen in public without some form of attire and the PR pooches are having an influence.
So, if you’re in the market for dog clothes that will turn heads and get your pooch noticed, designer doggie duds may be just what the fashion critic ordered. Just be sure not to combine designer labels or adorn your dog in designs that clash. After all, what could be more gauche?
About Author :Kirsten Hawkins is a dog lover and animal expert from Nashville, TN. Visit http://www.doghealth411.com/ for more information on dog health, the care of dogs, and dog travel
วันพฤหัสบดีที่ 20 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2550
Tumors in Tropical Fish
Tropical fish are like other species in many respects, and that includes the fact that they have diseases or disorders that may resemble those of other animals, but are specific to the fish themselves. One good example is tumors. Just as humans, cats or dogs may get cancer or other types of tumors, so can tropical fish.
The main difference is that treatment in fish is nearly impossible, depending on the type and location of the mass. Not only are they difficult to handle where a human can have clear visual access to them, but such things as surgery are basically out of the question. Tumors generally show themselves as a lump under or on the skin of fish.
These are a distinct bump or lump, as opposed to the white fluff of skin diseases. For the most part, tumors are benign, although it's possible for one to grow so large that the fish's quality of life declines and you may have to euthanize them. One type of tumor that does have some success with treatment, is the kind that forms under the skin of the gill, causing it to remain open. The cause of this is usually a thyroid malfunction.
Remove the fish to a hospital tank, and add 1 milligram of potassium iodine for every gallon of water. Improvement can be slow, and the full course of treatment can take up to four weeks. Internal tumors can be quite advanced before the fish shows any signs, such as a swelling of the abdomen. These cases are invariably fatal, with the rapid growth causing the fish to lose its ability to swim or eat, at which time you should consider euthanasia.
About Author :Love Tropical Fish? Find out how to create a beautiful, low-cost tropical fish aquarium with complimentary tips at http://www.TropicalFishIsland.com
The main difference is that treatment in fish is nearly impossible, depending on the type and location of the mass. Not only are they difficult to handle where a human can have clear visual access to them, but such things as surgery are basically out of the question. Tumors generally show themselves as a lump under or on the skin of fish.
These are a distinct bump or lump, as opposed to the white fluff of skin diseases. For the most part, tumors are benign, although it's possible for one to grow so large that the fish's quality of life declines and you may have to euthanize them. One type of tumor that does have some success with treatment, is the kind that forms under the skin of the gill, causing it to remain open. The cause of this is usually a thyroid malfunction.
Remove the fish to a hospital tank, and add 1 milligram of potassium iodine for every gallon of water. Improvement can be slow, and the full course of treatment can take up to four weeks. Internal tumors can be quite advanced before the fish shows any signs, such as a swelling of the abdomen. These cases are invariably fatal, with the rapid growth causing the fish to lose its ability to swim or eat, at which time you should consider euthanasia.
About Author :Love Tropical Fish? Find out how to create a beautiful, low-cost tropical fish aquarium with complimentary tips at http://www.TropicalFishIsland.com
Easy Tips for Healthy Pets
Easy Tips for Healthy Pets (c) 2005 Dr GW Graham
Do you want a long and healthy life for your pets?
There are things in our pets' environments that can rob them of precious health and long life. I'm not talking about cars accidents and mean kids in the neighborhood. I'm talking about things inside the home. Things like:
1) Food Food is meant to be good tasting and good for you. The same applies to our pets. Unfortunately, both people food and pet food are full of stuff. And most of this stuff isn't found growing naturally.
Manufacturers have taken the place of growers and cooks. To make foods taste better things are added.
To make foods last forever on the store shelf, things are added. For example, tomatoes are now designed to look good after a long trip to the store. They are not grown to be nutritious and safe.
On TV we see reports about how additives, preservatives and stuff are making our children unhealthy. The same thing applies to our pets' food.
Preservatives keep food fresh by altering the DNA of the creatures living on the food. What do these preservatives do to the DNA of the child or pet eating them?
See where I'm going?
Altered hormones, cell mutations (cancer), sickness !!!
The only way to minimize this stuff in our pet's food is to make the food ourselves. There are recipes all over the web for the kitchen literate.
http://www.simplypets.com http://www.bullwrinkle.com
Most people don't have the time to make their pet's food and treats. There are places where good wholesome pet foods can be purchased.
http://www.waggintails.com http://www.healthypetnet.com http://GrandPaGraham.com
2) Chemicals in the home
What do you use to clean your counter tops? Where do you store it? Can your pet get to it? Can your kids get to it?
A large number of children and pets are poisoned each year because household products are very attractive to inquisitive minds. There are a lot of products on the market that won't harm anyone if swallowed.
We had one 6 month old child find and swallow a cleanser. The parents didn't think he was old enough to get to the open bottle.
http://www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=apcc http://www.aapcc.org/
3) Mold in the home Most people consider mold in the home an unattractive nuisance. But it can cause allergic reactions in children AND pets.
One house we investigated had two sick, allergic, asthmatic kids. But they called us in when the dog started sneezing.
Does your pet sleep in the laundry room? Lots of mold there too.
Mold can cause: * Allergies, * sinus problems, * itching, * stomach problems, * hyperactivity, * skin and hair problems.
This list applies both to kids and pets.
But be careful about what you use to clean away the mold. Bleach doesn't kill mold but does burn sensitive lungs.
Don't use any product that your store owner or pest control person won't drink in front of you.
For more info on mold and what it can do to you and your pet, go to:
http://www.themoldlab.com
Remember - if you use this article as your guide, your pups and cats will love you for a long, long time.
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About Author :Dr Graham graduated from the University of Tennessee Medical Units at Memphis Tennessee. During a tour in the Army he helped develop many of the concepts dealing with Sick Building Syndrome. He currently is the CEO of Tennessee Mold and chief researcher for Mold Lab Int’l.
He has linked moldy homes to ADHD, Lupus, CFS and several other inflammatory diseases. He is currently doing research into mold and Alzheimer’s, arthritis and MS.
Do you want a long and healthy life for your pets?
There are things in our pets' environments that can rob them of precious health and long life. I'm not talking about cars accidents and mean kids in the neighborhood. I'm talking about things inside the home. Things like:
1) Food Food is meant to be good tasting and good for you. The same applies to our pets. Unfortunately, both people food and pet food are full of stuff. And most of this stuff isn't found growing naturally.
Manufacturers have taken the place of growers and cooks. To make foods taste better things are added.
To make foods last forever on the store shelf, things are added. For example, tomatoes are now designed to look good after a long trip to the store. They are not grown to be nutritious and safe.
On TV we see reports about how additives, preservatives and stuff are making our children unhealthy. The same thing applies to our pets' food.
Preservatives keep food fresh by altering the DNA of the creatures living on the food. What do these preservatives do to the DNA of the child or pet eating them?
See where I'm going?
Altered hormones, cell mutations (cancer), sickness !!!
The only way to minimize this stuff in our pet's food is to make the food ourselves. There are recipes all over the web for the kitchen literate.
http://www.simplypets.com http://www.bullwrinkle.com
Most people don't have the time to make their pet's food and treats. There are places where good wholesome pet foods can be purchased.
http://www.waggintails.com http://www.healthypetnet.com http://GrandPaGraham.com
2) Chemicals in the home
What do you use to clean your counter tops? Where do you store it? Can your pet get to it? Can your kids get to it?
A large number of children and pets are poisoned each year because household products are very attractive to inquisitive minds. There are a lot of products on the market that won't harm anyone if swallowed.
We had one 6 month old child find and swallow a cleanser. The parents didn't think he was old enough to get to the open bottle.
http://www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=apcc http://www.aapcc.org/
3) Mold in the home Most people consider mold in the home an unattractive nuisance. But it can cause allergic reactions in children AND pets.
One house we investigated had two sick, allergic, asthmatic kids. But they called us in when the dog started sneezing.
Does your pet sleep in the laundry room? Lots of mold there too.
Mold can cause: * Allergies, * sinus problems, * itching, * stomach problems, * hyperactivity, * skin and hair problems.
This list applies both to kids and pets.
But be careful about what you use to clean away the mold. Bleach doesn't kill mold but does burn sensitive lungs.
Don't use any product that your store owner or pest control person won't drink in front of you.
For more info on mold and what it can do to you and your pet, go to:
http://www.themoldlab.com
Remember - if you use this article as your guide, your pups and cats will love you for a long, long time.
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About Author :Dr Graham graduated from the University of Tennessee Medical Units at Memphis Tennessee. During a tour in the Army he helped develop many of the concepts dealing with Sick Building Syndrome. He currently is the CEO of Tennessee Mold and chief researcher for Mold Lab Int’l.
He has linked moldy homes to ADHD, Lupus, CFS and several other inflammatory diseases. He is currently doing research into mold and Alzheimer’s, arthritis and MS.
วันพุธที่ 19 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2550
Best Age to Obtain an new puppy
Best Age to get Papillon or Phalene Puppies Buyers have a lot of questions when they are looking for Papillon or Phalene puppies for sale. When is the best age to get Papillon or Phalene puppies is one of the questions. There is a lot of controversy between breeders and other dog professionals--trainers, pet counselors and even owners--over the best age to place or sell a puppy. Some Papillon and Phalene Breeders claim that they need to keep Papillon puppies or Phalene Puppies longer than the larger breed dogs and they offer several reasons for this, some contradictory. They say Papillons or Phalenes must stay with it's dam and littermates longer than a large breed for "socialization", or they want to decide if Papillon or Phalene Puppies are show or pet quality, or that it is too fragile to leave earlier, or even that the new owners cannot take care of such a small puppy. Many non-breeding animal professionals seriously dispute the need for a puppy to stay with its dam and littermates to "learn how to be a dog". In fact, a dog is born with the natural instinct to be what it is. A puppy raised with a litter of kittens will still be a dog--still bark not meow, and still dig in the yard and chase things that run or retrieve or chew--it will not lose it's natural instinct to act like a dog. The actual facts are--humans do not want a dog that has 'stayed with it's dam and littermates to learn to be a dog"!! Humans do not want a pet, especially Papillon or Phalenes, that barks excessively, chews furniture and clothes, goes "potty" anywhere in the house and ignores the human voice and commands. Instead, most pet-loving people want a Papillon or Phalene puppy that will bond to them, easy to teach to obey basic commands, likes to be with people and is relatively easy to housetrain (we never believe in house breaking) and does not bark for no reason at all. So when does this bonding start? Nature itself starts breaking the mother-puppy bond when the puppy is fully weaned. Puppies look to those who bring food and safety to establish a new bond. This is when the human--puppy bond begins. When papillon and phalene puppies have a full set of baby teeth and can eat on their own, the dam usually will move away from the puppies more often, to avoid the sharp little teeth. This is the time a wild dog would begin to hunt for her puppies and this is when the papillon or phalene breeder becomes the primary food source for the puppy. And this age is usually around 6 weeks. Pet professionals and many who also train their own dogs, have agreed that the younger puppies train more easily and bond to new owners more closely when placed between 6 and 10 weeks of age. (there are certain legal restrictions in selling or shipping before 8 weeks in some states) After this age, Papillon or Phalene puppies slowly becomes more set in their ways and these ways become more difficult to change later in life. Some papillon and phalene breeders claim they need to keep papillon or phalene puppies longer to determine if they are show quality-this often means they are hoping for a fault to disappear or are hoping that an expected fault does not crop up. However, there is evidence that the structure of a papillon or phalene puppy at 8 weeks old is the same structure the papillon or phalene dog will have as an adult, AND there is no way to be sure of coat and show worthiness until papillons and phalenes are 2 years old--so keeping Papillon or Phalene puppies 4 to 6 months serves no purpose for either a pet or show. Some papillon and phalene dog breeders say that the new owners have no ability to care for so young a puppy. Yet, they will say that they love to play with new papillon or phalene puppies and see the personality emerge. We at Pixiedust feel that the new owner CAN care for a papillon or phalene puppy the same as any breeder and the new owner DESERVES to enjoy and help shape the puppy personality to fit the owner and his life schedules. Some papillon and phalene breeders have gone to the extreme of saying there is no bonding process--that Papillon or Phalene Puppies will love all people equally. There is just too much evidence from research and owners alike that completely disprove this false statement. While older Papillons or Phalenes may become "generalized" and like any owner who treats it kindly, this is NOT the same as that special bond developed between young puppies and a devoted owner. Older Papillons and Phalenes can and do become special pets, but again, this is not exactly the same as the bonding for young puppies. There are cases where Papillon or Phalene puppies may be too tiny to place at an early age, For good breeders of Papillons and Phalenes, this should be the exception, not the rule. Any good breeder of Papillons and Phalenes should be breeding healthy, sturdy Papillon and Phalene puppies, no matter that they are a toy breed. At Pixiedust, we breed Papillons and Phalenes that can compete in agility and obedience, and still be small lap dogs. And we want all of our papillon and phalene puppies and their owners, to develop that special connection that makes for a life-long companionship between dog and owner. Written by www.pixiedustpapillons.com Include links when using this article.
About Author :Pixiedust is a premier breeder of quality papillon and phalene dogs for pet and show. www.pixiedustpapillons.com
About Author :Pixiedust is a premier breeder of quality papillon and phalene dogs for pet and show. www.pixiedustpapillons.com
You CAN Have Your Cats and Your Furniture Too
No one wants to invest hundreds or even thousands of dollars in furnishings only to see them ripped to shreds by an overzealous pet, however beloved. To many people the obvious answer is to have their cats declawed, but it this really a reasonable alternative?
Its proponents depict it as a simple and painless operation, but it is neither simple or painless. Most people aren't aware that it's not just the claws that are removed. Declawing involves the amputation of the first joint of each toe, and as any amputee can tell you, the pain persists for months if not years. The only difference is your cat can't tell you it still hurts.
This doesn't mean you have to put up with shredded furniture and drapes, or snagged carpets. I have four cats of my own, none of then declawed, and my upholstery and curtains are intact and my rugs unsnagged. There are a number of steps you can take to minimize or eliminate the damage.
1. Give them what they want.
Scratching is not just a means of sharpening claws, it's a vital form of exercise that tones and strengthens the muscles. Even declawed cats go through the motions. It's instinctive. Birds gotta swim, fish gotta fly, cats gotta scratch. Whatever. So give them something suitable to scratch on, preferably not one of those pint-sized carpet-covered pet department abominations. That only confuses them.
If that's what you already have, at least pull off the carpeting and wrap it with good quality jute or sisal rope, half-inch in diameter, wound tightly and secured with glue. If you sew, you might try making a slip cover you can easily remove and replace as necessary. Burlap is good for this, but almost any fabric with a heavy weave or a textured surface will work. My own cats are partial to upholstery velvet and corduroy. Ideally the post should be at least two inches higher than the cat can reach.
Many cats prefer a horizontal surface to scratch on, and take well to a commercial scratching pad made from corrugated cardboard.
Whatever you decide to use, spray it lightly with catnip extract (not synthetic - they WILL know the difference) and place it near your cat's favorite scratching spot. Once he or she becomes accustomed to the new surface, gradually move it to a more convenient location. These materials tend to be messy, so choose a spot where you can easily sweep or vacuum around it.
2. Use your good judgement when choosing fabrics and rugs.
Pass up all those lovely but delicate satin and damask weaves or the aforementioned textured surfaces. These are cat magnets. Knits and other stretchy fabrics are an open invitation to snags. Leather and faux leathers are also major no-no's. Sheer panels at the windows? Forget it!
Look for strong fabrics with a tight weave such as sailcloth or canvas. Most denims hold up well, also. For curtains, go with something like percale or chintz. Most of the curtains at my house are made from bedsheets, and are not only attractive but virtually indestructible. For carpeting, a medium or low plush is preferable to a berber or a sculptured pile. Remember, minimum texture is the key.
As long as we're on the subject, think brown. That way when your cat upchucks on it, and it will, it won't be such a disaster. If your cat is still drawn to the furniture, a number of companies sell clear plastic corner protectors that self-adhere to most fabrics.
3. Trim the claws.
It's not as difficult as it might seem, especially if you start them as kittens. Use a specifically designed animal nail trimmer and start out slow. Begin by just handling the paws, and practice extending the claws without trying to trim. The cat will become accustomed to being handled and will be less likely to react violently to the actual trimming. After a few days of this, try trimming, just one or two nails at a time, and only take off the very tips. If you still find it troublesome, most professional groomers will do it for a minimal fee.
4. Claw caps.
These are soft plastic covers that are glued onto the claws and last for up to 4-6 weeks. I've never tried them myself, but many people report good results.
Cats and people have shared living quarters for thousand of years, and with a little forethought and cooperation we should be able to maintain a harmonious relationship between ourselves, our pets, and our furniture.
copyright 2005
Kathie Freeman is the author of Catwalk, a Feline Odyssey. For more of her articles and short stories visit Kathie's Stories and Tails at http://home.att.net/~kathiefreeman/ This article is free to use as long as the byline and this source information is included.
About Author :Kathie Freeman is a life-long cat person who along with her husband has been owned by as many as 13 cats at once. They currently share their California home with four cats and a dog. She is the author of "Catwalk, a Feline Odyssey", the captivating story of a wandering tabby cat and the people she meets on her journey of adventure and discovery. Ms Freeman is also the author of "The Retro", as well as numerous short stories and
Its proponents depict it as a simple and painless operation, but it is neither simple or painless. Most people aren't aware that it's not just the claws that are removed. Declawing involves the amputation of the first joint of each toe, and as any amputee can tell you, the pain persists for months if not years. The only difference is your cat can't tell you it still hurts.
This doesn't mean you have to put up with shredded furniture and drapes, or snagged carpets. I have four cats of my own, none of then declawed, and my upholstery and curtains are intact and my rugs unsnagged. There are a number of steps you can take to minimize or eliminate the damage.
1. Give them what they want.
Scratching is not just a means of sharpening claws, it's a vital form of exercise that tones and strengthens the muscles. Even declawed cats go through the motions. It's instinctive. Birds gotta swim, fish gotta fly, cats gotta scratch. Whatever. So give them something suitable to scratch on, preferably not one of those pint-sized carpet-covered pet department abominations. That only confuses them.
If that's what you already have, at least pull off the carpeting and wrap it with good quality jute or sisal rope, half-inch in diameter, wound tightly and secured with glue. If you sew, you might try making a slip cover you can easily remove and replace as necessary. Burlap is good for this, but almost any fabric with a heavy weave or a textured surface will work. My own cats are partial to upholstery velvet and corduroy. Ideally the post should be at least two inches higher than the cat can reach.
Many cats prefer a horizontal surface to scratch on, and take well to a commercial scratching pad made from corrugated cardboard.
Whatever you decide to use, spray it lightly with catnip extract (not synthetic - they WILL know the difference) and place it near your cat's favorite scratching spot. Once he or she becomes accustomed to the new surface, gradually move it to a more convenient location. These materials tend to be messy, so choose a spot where you can easily sweep or vacuum around it.
2. Use your good judgement when choosing fabrics and rugs.
Pass up all those lovely but delicate satin and damask weaves or the aforementioned textured surfaces. These are cat magnets. Knits and other stretchy fabrics are an open invitation to snags. Leather and faux leathers are also major no-no's. Sheer panels at the windows? Forget it!
Look for strong fabrics with a tight weave such as sailcloth or canvas. Most denims hold up well, also. For curtains, go with something like percale or chintz. Most of the curtains at my house are made from bedsheets, and are not only attractive but virtually indestructible. For carpeting, a medium or low plush is preferable to a berber or a sculptured pile. Remember, minimum texture is the key.
As long as we're on the subject, think brown. That way when your cat upchucks on it, and it will, it won't be such a disaster. If your cat is still drawn to the furniture, a number of companies sell clear plastic corner protectors that self-adhere to most fabrics.
3. Trim the claws.
It's not as difficult as it might seem, especially if you start them as kittens. Use a specifically designed animal nail trimmer and start out slow. Begin by just handling the paws, and practice extending the claws without trying to trim. The cat will become accustomed to being handled and will be less likely to react violently to the actual trimming. After a few days of this, try trimming, just one or two nails at a time, and only take off the very tips. If you still find it troublesome, most professional groomers will do it for a minimal fee.
4. Claw caps.
These are soft plastic covers that are glued onto the claws and last for up to 4-6 weeks. I've never tried them myself, but many people report good results.
Cats and people have shared living quarters for thousand of years, and with a little forethought and cooperation we should be able to maintain a harmonious relationship between ourselves, our pets, and our furniture.
copyright 2005
Kathie Freeman is the author of Catwalk, a Feline Odyssey. For more of her articles and short stories visit Kathie's Stories and Tails at http://home.att.net/~kathiefreeman/ This article is free to use as long as the byline and this source information is included.
About Author :Kathie Freeman is a life-long cat person who along with her husband has been owned by as many as 13 cats at once. They currently share their California home with four cats and a dog. She is the author of "Catwalk, a Feline Odyssey", the captivating story of a wandering tabby cat and the people she meets on her journey of adventure and discovery. Ms Freeman is also the author of "The Retro", as well as numerous short stories and
วันอังคารที่ 18 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2550
I Hate To Say That I Told You So
I created the Perverted Perfection Website at http://politics.billknell.com so that people could get another view of all things political. Apart from Left, Right or somewhere in between, there is the fact that politicians have been steadily increasing their control over our lives. That control has nothing to do with any of the knee jerk issues or colorful people we love to hate on either side of the aisle in government. It’s all about CONTROL and always has been.
Despite any moves in either political direction over the past twenty years, the government has seized more control over everything you do. This is not about protecting you from terrorists, lowering or raising taxes or anything other then a power grab. Nothing illustrates this more then the recent decision by the U.S. Supreme Court regarding a government’s right to seize private property for public use.
It’s been a trend throughout the nation. Huge tracts of privately owned land are seized by local cities, towns and villages and turned over to big box store developers. The idea is that everyone will benefit because more tax revenue will be generated by a big store then the Johnson’s Horse Stable or Shelly Greenberg’s two bedroom home. However, what happened to the private property rights of those people? Given this decision, it would be almost foolish for anyone to buy any land unless it’s part of some preplanned and approved subdivision. In short, the government is now forcing people to live where they want them to. It’s social engineering, pure and simple.
When I first started my Website in the late 1990s, my concern was to make people aware that they were being used and manipulated by politicians with an agenda that serves their own purposes. Now the chickens have come home to roost. Law after law is being proposed before Congress that will limit your right to live life the way you want to in a free society. A good example is the PAWS act. This legislation is supposed to protect animals. The idea is to bring all dog and cat breeders of any size under the control of the federal government. It doesn’t say that, but read it carefully. If you advertise or sell your pups online, you are their target. As if it’s any surprise in a politically correct America, Rescue Groups are immune from this legislation.
There will always be a bad guy the government uses as an excuse to chip away at your Rights. Whether it’s drug dealers, terrorists, puppy mill operators or someone else, it will be YOU who will lose your Rights and the bad guys will still be there. That’s because the legislation that ends up as law doesn’t mention drug dealers, terrorists or puppy mill operators. It mentions YOU. You are the one who will be told where to live, how to travel, what to eat, what type of business you can own and which activities they feel are politically correct enough for you to be involved in.
I hate to say I told you so, but I did. I predicted that no matter which party was elected in any election, YOU would be the loser. I always say to use your vote before you lose it. That time may have already past.
--------------------------
You can read more about the intrusive PAWS Act at http://billknell.tripod.com/PAWS.htm
About Author :A native New Yorker now living in Arizona, Bill Knell is a forty-something guy with a wealth of knowledge and experience. He's written hundreds of articles offer advice on a wide variety of subjects.
Despite any moves in either political direction over the past twenty years, the government has seized more control over everything you do. This is not about protecting you from terrorists, lowering or raising taxes or anything other then a power grab. Nothing illustrates this more then the recent decision by the U.S. Supreme Court regarding a government’s right to seize private property for public use.
It’s been a trend throughout the nation. Huge tracts of privately owned land are seized by local cities, towns and villages and turned over to big box store developers. The idea is that everyone will benefit because more tax revenue will be generated by a big store then the Johnson’s Horse Stable or Shelly Greenberg’s two bedroom home. However, what happened to the private property rights of those people? Given this decision, it would be almost foolish for anyone to buy any land unless it’s part of some preplanned and approved subdivision. In short, the government is now forcing people to live where they want them to. It’s social engineering, pure and simple.
When I first started my Website in the late 1990s, my concern was to make people aware that they were being used and manipulated by politicians with an agenda that serves their own purposes. Now the chickens have come home to roost. Law after law is being proposed before Congress that will limit your right to live life the way you want to in a free society. A good example is the PAWS act. This legislation is supposed to protect animals. The idea is to bring all dog and cat breeders of any size under the control of the federal government. It doesn’t say that, but read it carefully. If you advertise or sell your pups online, you are their target. As if it’s any surprise in a politically correct America, Rescue Groups are immune from this legislation.
There will always be a bad guy the government uses as an excuse to chip away at your Rights. Whether it’s drug dealers, terrorists, puppy mill operators or someone else, it will be YOU who will lose your Rights and the bad guys will still be there. That’s because the legislation that ends up as law doesn’t mention drug dealers, terrorists or puppy mill operators. It mentions YOU. You are the one who will be told where to live, how to travel, what to eat, what type of business you can own and which activities they feel are politically correct enough for you to be involved in.
I hate to say I told you so, but I did. I predicted that no matter which party was elected in any election, YOU would be the loser. I always say to use your vote before you lose it. That time may have already past.
--------------------------
You can read more about the intrusive PAWS Act at http://billknell.tripod.com/PAWS.htm
About Author :A native New Yorker now living in Arizona, Bill Knell is a forty-something guy with a wealth of knowledge and experience. He's written hundreds of articles offer advice on a wide variety of subjects.
Puppy Crate Training -- Fast Track to a Contented Dog
Puppy crate training is one of the most effective ways to housebreak your new puppy. Puppy crate training takes a little patience, but it's a good way to set your puppy on the right path. This method has an impressive track record. Be sure to prepare everything ahead of time. Even before you bring your new puppy home, have the puppy crate ready and waiting.
The size of the crate is important. For proper puppy crate training, you should have plenty of room in the crate for the puppy to turn around, stand and lie down, but don't get one that's too big. Puppies feel uncomfortable in a crate that's so big they rattle around in it.
If your puppy is a breed that will grow large, it's okay to buy a bigger crate for him to grow into, but make sure it has an adjustable partition in the back. This lets you keep his living space comfortable and cozy, but you can still expand it by moving the partition back as your puppy grows to full size.
When you are ready to begin puppy crate training, place your new puppy gently in his crate. Make sure you've also put a towel or small blanket and a treat or toy in the crate. If you're using a wire crate for puppy crate training, always remove the puppy’s collar first so it won’t get snagged on the wire. You may hear some whining or even crying at this point. You need to ignore it. Sometimes it helps to cover the crate with a blanket so his home feels a little cozier. Remember, dogs are not claustrophobic. They like an enclosed space. It's their den.
After your puppy has remained in the crate for about twenty minutes, remove him from the crate and take him outside. As soon as he goes potty, praise him, pet him and make him feel loved and close.
The next step in the puppy crate training process is to bring your puppy back inside and play together for twenty to thirty minutes. Then it's time to put your puppy back in the crate. You'll be able to gradually increase the crate time to two hours.
Puppies will not usually go potty in their crates. If your puppy has an accident, never scold. They really don't understand the idea that going potty is bad, so scolding doesn’t help. It only confuses them. For best results with puppy crate training, you'll need to have a schedule. And when you take your puppy outside, always make sure you take him to the same spot each time. Especially at first, every time you remove him from his crate, you'll want to take him outside. This builds a clear association in his mind.
As your puppy begins to get the hang of puppy crate training you'll be able to leave him in the crate for longer periods. Eventually he'll feel so at home in the crate that you'll be able to leave the crate door open overnight and for short periods during the day. Successful puppy crate training has two simple requirements: patience and a regular schedule. With those two things, your new puppy will soon be a happy, well-adjusted member of the family.
About Author :Puppy-Toy-Tips.com Learn great ways to use puppy toys for training and socializing your new pup. Make sure you're on the right track wnen training your dog. Also, go and get the free eBook of puppy coloring pages for your kids.
The size of the crate is important. For proper puppy crate training, you should have plenty of room in the crate for the puppy to turn around, stand and lie down, but don't get one that's too big. Puppies feel uncomfortable in a crate that's so big they rattle around in it.
If your puppy is a breed that will grow large, it's okay to buy a bigger crate for him to grow into, but make sure it has an adjustable partition in the back. This lets you keep his living space comfortable and cozy, but you can still expand it by moving the partition back as your puppy grows to full size.
When you are ready to begin puppy crate training, place your new puppy gently in his crate. Make sure you've also put a towel or small blanket and a treat or toy in the crate. If you're using a wire crate for puppy crate training, always remove the puppy’s collar first so it won’t get snagged on the wire. You may hear some whining or even crying at this point. You need to ignore it. Sometimes it helps to cover the crate with a blanket so his home feels a little cozier. Remember, dogs are not claustrophobic. They like an enclosed space. It's their den.
After your puppy has remained in the crate for about twenty minutes, remove him from the crate and take him outside. As soon as he goes potty, praise him, pet him and make him feel loved and close.
The next step in the puppy crate training process is to bring your puppy back inside and play together for twenty to thirty minutes. Then it's time to put your puppy back in the crate. You'll be able to gradually increase the crate time to two hours.
Puppies will not usually go potty in their crates. If your puppy has an accident, never scold. They really don't understand the idea that going potty is bad, so scolding doesn’t help. It only confuses them. For best results with puppy crate training, you'll need to have a schedule. And when you take your puppy outside, always make sure you take him to the same spot each time. Especially at first, every time you remove him from his crate, you'll want to take him outside. This builds a clear association in his mind.
As your puppy begins to get the hang of puppy crate training you'll be able to leave him in the crate for longer periods. Eventually he'll feel so at home in the crate that you'll be able to leave the crate door open overnight and for short periods during the day. Successful puppy crate training has two simple requirements: patience and a regular schedule. With those two things, your new puppy will soon be a happy, well-adjusted member of the family.
About Author :Puppy-Toy-Tips.com Learn great ways to use puppy toys for training and socializing your new pup. Make sure you're on the right track wnen training your dog. Also, go and get the free eBook of puppy coloring pages for your kids.
วันจันทร์ที่ 17 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2550
Dog training -training for proper dog behavior
There are many reasons for teaching proper dog behavior, and teaching such behavior has many benefits for both the human and canine partners. Dog behavior training is vital to such life and death issues as preventing aggression, controlling dog on dog aggression problems and teaching dogs to interact properly with both their handlers and with other members of the family.
Understanding how dogs evolved, and how dogs interact with each other, is very important to understanding how to properly train your dog to be a devoted, loyal companion.
The original dogs were probably orphaned wolf pups adopted by early humans. These wild dogs probably learned to perform behaviors that their human protectors valued, such as guarding the cave or scaring off predators. In exchange for these valued behaviors, the humans probably provided their new companions with foods, protection and shelter.
That kind of relationship still exists today, of course, and dogs still can, and do, perform valuable jobs for their human benefactors. Those jobs include herding and guarding livestock, guarding property, guarding people, and finding game.
When planning a dog training program, it is important to know that dogs are pack animals. In wild dog societies, packs are formed, and each member of the pack quickly learns his or her place in the pecking order. Except in the event of death or injury to the alpha dog, the hierarchy never changes once it has been established. The lower dogs know not to challenge the alpha dog, and the alpha dog understand his place as leader of the pack.
All the other dogs in the pack look to the alpha dog for leadership, in important survival issues like finding food and avoiding larger predators. In order to properly train your dog and gain its respect, it is important for you to become the alpha dog.
That is because a dog that sees its owner as a superior leader will follow the commands the owner gives without question. Getting the respect of the dog is the most important step to proper dog training, and it will form the basis of all subsequent training.
The reasons for training a dog properly are many, especially in today's world. A well mannered, obedient dog is a joy to be around, both for the owner and his or her family, and for people in the community at large. In addition, seeing a well mannered dog sets people's mind at ease, especially with breeds of dog thought to be dangerous, such as Dobermans, rottweilers and pit bulls.
When training dogs and dealing with unwanted dog behaviors, it is important to understand the motivating factors behind those behaviors. For example, many dogs exhibit unwanted behaviors such as chewing and destroying furniture due to separation anxiety. Dealing with the sources of problem behaviors is an important first step toward eliminating those problem behaviors.
Many dogs exhibit unwanted behaviors as a result of stress in the animal's life, and its inability to cope with that stress. The goal of a good dog training program is to allow the dog to tolerate greater levels of stress without becoming a problem animal.
When dealing with dog behavior, it is important not to confuse human behavior with dog behavior. While there is a great temptation on the part of dog owners to see their dogs as almost human, in reality dogs and humans have very different motivations, and very different reactions to similar situations.
One trait that humans and dogs do share, however, is the need to form close social groups and strong bonds within those social groups. This bonding is important to both humans and dogs, but it has served vastly different ends as both species have evolved and changed over time.
About Author :Tony Robinson is an international author and dog lover. His website http://www.dogtraining4u.com contains valuable insights into the life of our canine friends.
Understanding how dogs evolved, and how dogs interact with each other, is very important to understanding how to properly train your dog to be a devoted, loyal companion.
The original dogs were probably orphaned wolf pups adopted by early humans. These wild dogs probably learned to perform behaviors that their human protectors valued, such as guarding the cave or scaring off predators. In exchange for these valued behaviors, the humans probably provided their new companions with foods, protection and shelter.
That kind of relationship still exists today, of course, and dogs still can, and do, perform valuable jobs for their human benefactors. Those jobs include herding and guarding livestock, guarding property, guarding people, and finding game.
When planning a dog training program, it is important to know that dogs are pack animals. In wild dog societies, packs are formed, and each member of the pack quickly learns his or her place in the pecking order. Except in the event of death or injury to the alpha dog, the hierarchy never changes once it has been established. The lower dogs know not to challenge the alpha dog, and the alpha dog understand his place as leader of the pack.
All the other dogs in the pack look to the alpha dog for leadership, in important survival issues like finding food and avoiding larger predators. In order to properly train your dog and gain its respect, it is important for you to become the alpha dog.
That is because a dog that sees its owner as a superior leader will follow the commands the owner gives without question. Getting the respect of the dog is the most important step to proper dog training, and it will form the basis of all subsequent training.
The reasons for training a dog properly are many, especially in today's world. A well mannered, obedient dog is a joy to be around, both for the owner and his or her family, and for people in the community at large. In addition, seeing a well mannered dog sets people's mind at ease, especially with breeds of dog thought to be dangerous, such as Dobermans, rottweilers and pit bulls.
When training dogs and dealing with unwanted dog behaviors, it is important to understand the motivating factors behind those behaviors. For example, many dogs exhibit unwanted behaviors such as chewing and destroying furniture due to separation anxiety. Dealing with the sources of problem behaviors is an important first step toward eliminating those problem behaviors.
Many dogs exhibit unwanted behaviors as a result of stress in the animal's life, and its inability to cope with that stress. The goal of a good dog training program is to allow the dog to tolerate greater levels of stress without becoming a problem animal.
When dealing with dog behavior, it is important not to confuse human behavior with dog behavior. While there is a great temptation on the part of dog owners to see their dogs as almost human, in reality dogs and humans have very different motivations, and very different reactions to similar situations.
One trait that humans and dogs do share, however, is the need to form close social groups and strong bonds within those social groups. This bonding is important to both humans and dogs, but it has served vastly different ends as both species have evolved and changed over time.
About Author :Tony Robinson is an international author and dog lover. His website http://www.dogtraining4u.com contains valuable insights into the life of our canine friends.
A Dog Name is Something To Be Chosen Carefully
How important is a dog name? Well let's think about this.
How often do you call your dog? Who will hear your dog's name? Will you be writing to anyone about this dog?
Now that you think about the times you'll use the name, maybe you should put some thought into what that dog name is.
I mean, if you have a Great Dane who weighs 120 lbs, you might not want to call him something like Baby or Tiny. Or you might... it's a personal thing. Personally, Tiny would be hilarious to me.
I can just imagine calling, "Tiny, come here boy!" While a neighbor is watching and for the first time sees this "Tiny." Now that could be an interesting look to receive!
Maybe you have a dog that has a bit of a fiesty side nd you think it's a good idea to call him "Killer." Maybe you weren't thinking about the little old lady that lives by herself next door... waiting for "Killer" to go home so she can get to the grocery store.
Are these extremes? Of course! But, haven't you heard some dog names that just didn't seem... right?
My dogs have some sort of silly names. Actually, my Black Lab, Sadie, had a carefully chosen name. I was pregnant with my first child when we got Sadie. She was six weeks old and clever as they come.
Sadie was very majestic in all her movements and attitudes. So, we decided to look at our baby name book and see what we could come up with to suit her.
Sadie is actually a pet form of Sarah, which means "lady" or "princess" in Hebrew.
It totally fit her and is the best suited dog name I think we could have given her.
Two of her sons, however, were not so fortunate. See, two years ago Sadie had a litter of 7 pups, which we did not intend to keep. We already had four dogs and didn't need any more.
We cared for the pups though and watched them grow each day. My husband and I would swap stories about the cute little things they did.
The dogs all looked so much alike that we found it confusing to talk about them without names. Eventually, names started emerging on their own.
For example, there was one brown dog in the mix. (How he got this color and look is a mystery.) So we called him Brownie. Not the cleverest of names, but it helped us identify him.
Next there was Tipper and Bubba, who we ended up keeping. Tipper has a tiny patch of white on the tips of his front paws... hence the name "Tipper."
Bubba, as his name might suggest, is a big brute. He's the biggest and the meanest of the litter.
But, if we knew we were going to keep these guys, we might have gone a different route in choosing a dog name. Bubba doesn't exactly say, "Son of a princess," but his attitude definitely does.
So here are some examples of the different ways a dog name can make a difference.
My advice? Think about all the times you'll use the name. Find out a little about who your dog is before giving him a name. And, think of yourself 10 years older than you are now... will you still like to say that name and think... I chose that?
About the author: About Author ::
Tina Spriggs is an expert dog lover whose lifelong interest in canines provides the motivation for her site. To learn more about dogs or to find gifts and toys for them visit her site at Dog Gifts and Toys for Dog Lovers.
How often do you call your dog? Who will hear your dog's name? Will you be writing to anyone about this dog?
Now that you think about the times you'll use the name, maybe you should put some thought into what that dog name is.
I mean, if you have a Great Dane who weighs 120 lbs, you might not want to call him something like Baby or Tiny. Or you might... it's a personal thing. Personally, Tiny would be hilarious to me.
I can just imagine calling, "Tiny, come here boy!" While a neighbor is watching and for the first time sees this "Tiny." Now that could be an interesting look to receive!
Maybe you have a dog that has a bit of a fiesty side nd you think it's a good idea to call him "Killer." Maybe you weren't thinking about the little old lady that lives by herself next door... waiting for "Killer" to go home so she can get to the grocery store.
Are these extremes? Of course! But, haven't you heard some dog names that just didn't seem... right?
My dogs have some sort of silly names. Actually, my Black Lab, Sadie, had a carefully chosen name. I was pregnant with my first child when we got Sadie. She was six weeks old and clever as they come.
Sadie was very majestic in all her movements and attitudes. So, we decided to look at our baby name book and see what we could come up with to suit her.
Sadie is actually a pet form of Sarah, which means "lady" or "princess" in Hebrew.
It totally fit her and is the best suited dog name I think we could have given her.
Two of her sons, however, were not so fortunate. See, two years ago Sadie had a litter of 7 pups, which we did not intend to keep. We already had four dogs and didn't need any more.
We cared for the pups though and watched them grow each day. My husband and I would swap stories about the cute little things they did.
The dogs all looked so much alike that we found it confusing to talk about them without names. Eventually, names started emerging on their own.
For example, there was one brown dog in the mix. (How he got this color and look is a mystery.) So we called him Brownie. Not the cleverest of names, but it helped us identify him.
Next there was Tipper and Bubba, who we ended up keeping. Tipper has a tiny patch of white on the tips of his front paws... hence the name "Tipper."
Bubba, as his name might suggest, is a big brute. He's the biggest and the meanest of the litter.
But, if we knew we were going to keep these guys, we might have gone a different route in choosing a dog name. Bubba doesn't exactly say, "Son of a princess," but his attitude definitely does.
So here are some examples of the different ways a dog name can make a difference.
My advice? Think about all the times you'll use the name. Find out a little about who your dog is before giving him a name. And, think of yourself 10 years older than you are now... will you still like to say that name and think... I chose that?
About the author: About Author ::
Tina Spriggs is an expert dog lover whose lifelong interest in canines provides the motivation for her site. To learn more about dogs or to find gifts and toys for them visit her site at Dog Gifts and Toys for Dog Lovers.
วันอาทิตย์ที่ 16 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2550
Barking Problems
All dogs bark, it’s their way to communicate a message. Dog barks for various reasons: to greet, to alert, out of boredom, to attract attention or when they are excited. Although some barking from is acceptable, too much barking is certainly annoying, especially for your neighbors and eventually leading to complains. The easiest way to stop a problematic barker is to control his barking while you are at home: 1. Set up a situation where your dog will always bark. For example, you can ask someone to ring your doorbell or knock on your door. 2. When your dog charges to the door and start to bark loudly, approach your dog, grab his collar and give the command “quiet” – no shouting please, it doesn’t help. 3. If he stops barking, praise and reward. He’s a genius and deserves it. 4. When he continues barking, close his mouth with your hand, wrap your fingers around his muzzle – use both hands if needed, and give the command for him to keep quiet. Praise if he stops. Most dogs would be able to learn the “quiet” command with repeated training like this. Set up similar situations to "lure" your dog to bark and repeat training whenever possible. If you happen to own a hard-core persistent barker, use this method: 1. Vinegar-Water solution – mix a proportion of 7/8 water & 1/8 vinegar together. Pour the mixture into a water pistol or what kids call “super soaker” for longer distance shooting. 2. Aim and shoot at his chest whenever he can’t stop barking even on your command. Dogs hate the smell of vinegar and would usually back off and stop barking. He’ll even sneeze a few times. It’s harmless so you need not worry. 3. As always, praise him when he stops barking. For your information, your dog might still be barking noisily and disrupting your neighborhood when you are not at home. In this case, you’ll need a training equipment known as “bark collars” to help train him. There are several types of bark collars on the market. Some of these collars send an electric shock to your dog when he barks, some make a high pitch sound or emits a squirt of citronella which is annoying but safe for your dog. Usually, these collars can help you solve a problematic barker. Personally, I’ll recommend the high pitch sound or citronella collars. They are very effective and more humane dog training tools.
About Author :Moses Chia is a dog lover and owner of http://DogsObedienceTraining.com – The dog training resource site for a happier and healthier dog. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.
About Author :Moses Chia is a dog lover and owner of http://DogsObedienceTraining.com – The dog training resource site for a happier and healthier dog. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.
Eliminating Problem Dog Behaviors - Jumping And Roaming
Every dog owner must eventually deal with some unwanted behaviors on the part of their four legged companions. Some of the most frequently encountered training problems with puppies and dogs alike are jumping on people and performing those amazing feats of escape.
Jumping up on people
Jumping up on people can be a cute trick for puppies, but it quickly becomes a problem behavior as the dog gets older, larger and heavier. A very heavy dog can easily knock a child or even a small adult of his or her feet, so jumping on people can be a dangerous problem as well as an annoying one.
The reason puppies and older dogs jump on people is obvious - they are excited and happy to see them. Many people are reluctant to discourage this exuberant behavior, but it is important to redirect that happiness and energy in other ways. Many well meaning owners, family members and friends inadvertently encourage this jumping up behavior by picking the puppy up, kissing it or otherwise providing encouragement.
This type of inconsistency is anathema to proper dog training, and in order for the dog to be trained not to jump, every member of the family must recognize and accept the importance of the training. If one member of the family allows the dog to jump up while other family members do not, the dog will understandably become confused and frustrated. The training must be firm, kind and consistent in order to be effective.
One way to redirect the dog's happiness and excited ness from jumping is to teach him to lift his paw when greeting you. This "shaking hands" posture is an acceptable way for the dog to show his happiness and his respect. Many people even teach their dogs to do simple tricks, like rolling over, instead of jumping on people.
Escaping and roaming the neighborhood
A responsible dog owner would never dream of allowing his or her dog to roam the neighborhood freely. Allowing a dog to roam on its own is irresponsible, dangerous (to the dog and the neighborhood), and probably even illegal. Most towns have ordinances which prohibit dogs from being allowed to roam around free, so you could be in legal trouble if your dog is found wandering the neighborhood unattended.
Of course sometimes that wandering dog is not the owner's idea, and many dogs perform amazing feats of escape when left on their own. The temptations for unattended dogs are many, including passing bicycles, joggers, children, cats and other dogs. It is much easier to prevent escapes than to recapture a loose dog, so let's talk about some preventative measures every dog owner can take.
Removing the motivation to escape is a big part of the solution. A bored dog is much more likely to spend his day plotting the great escape. A dog that is surrounded by everything he or she needs, like lots of toys, a soft bed, and plenty of fresh clean, water, is more likely to spend his or her day contentedly sleeping or playing with toys until the owner returns.
In addition, a dog with lots of pent up, unused energy is likely to try to escape. Try incorporating several vigorous play sessions with your dog into your daily routine. Make one of those play sessions right before you leave. If your dog has a chance to work of his or her energy, chances are he or she will sleep or relax much of the day.
Of course dealing with the dog is only half the problem. It is also important to make the property as escape proof as possible, through proper fencing and other measures. For dogs that dig, it may be necessary to extend the fence underground by placing metal stakes in the ground every few feet. For dogs that jump, it may be necessary to make the fence higher. And if none of these measures work, it may be necessary to confine the dog to the house when you are not at home.
About Author :Dog lover Dawn Keadic appreciates the benefits of a well-trained dog. There is no nicer compliment than "Wow, your dog listens well, how did you train him?" Dawn shares some secrets of having a well-behaved dog at Puppy Training.
Jumping up on people
Jumping up on people can be a cute trick for puppies, but it quickly becomes a problem behavior as the dog gets older, larger and heavier. A very heavy dog can easily knock a child or even a small adult of his or her feet, so jumping on people can be a dangerous problem as well as an annoying one.
The reason puppies and older dogs jump on people is obvious - they are excited and happy to see them. Many people are reluctant to discourage this exuberant behavior, but it is important to redirect that happiness and energy in other ways. Many well meaning owners, family members and friends inadvertently encourage this jumping up behavior by picking the puppy up, kissing it or otherwise providing encouragement.
This type of inconsistency is anathema to proper dog training, and in order for the dog to be trained not to jump, every member of the family must recognize and accept the importance of the training. If one member of the family allows the dog to jump up while other family members do not, the dog will understandably become confused and frustrated. The training must be firm, kind and consistent in order to be effective.
One way to redirect the dog's happiness and excited ness from jumping is to teach him to lift his paw when greeting you. This "shaking hands" posture is an acceptable way for the dog to show his happiness and his respect. Many people even teach their dogs to do simple tricks, like rolling over, instead of jumping on people.
Escaping and roaming the neighborhood
A responsible dog owner would never dream of allowing his or her dog to roam the neighborhood freely. Allowing a dog to roam on its own is irresponsible, dangerous (to the dog and the neighborhood), and probably even illegal. Most towns have ordinances which prohibit dogs from being allowed to roam around free, so you could be in legal trouble if your dog is found wandering the neighborhood unattended.
Of course sometimes that wandering dog is not the owner's idea, and many dogs perform amazing feats of escape when left on their own. The temptations for unattended dogs are many, including passing bicycles, joggers, children, cats and other dogs. It is much easier to prevent escapes than to recapture a loose dog, so let's talk about some preventative measures every dog owner can take.
Removing the motivation to escape is a big part of the solution. A bored dog is much more likely to spend his day plotting the great escape. A dog that is surrounded by everything he or she needs, like lots of toys, a soft bed, and plenty of fresh clean, water, is more likely to spend his or her day contentedly sleeping or playing with toys until the owner returns.
In addition, a dog with lots of pent up, unused energy is likely to try to escape. Try incorporating several vigorous play sessions with your dog into your daily routine. Make one of those play sessions right before you leave. If your dog has a chance to work of his or her energy, chances are he or she will sleep or relax much of the day.
Of course dealing with the dog is only half the problem. It is also important to make the property as escape proof as possible, through proper fencing and other measures. For dogs that dig, it may be necessary to extend the fence underground by placing metal stakes in the ground every few feet. For dogs that jump, it may be necessary to make the fence higher. And if none of these measures work, it may be necessary to confine the dog to the house when you are not at home.
About Author :Dog lover Dawn Keadic appreciates the benefits of a well-trained dog. There is no nicer compliment than "Wow, your dog listens well, how did you train him?" Dawn shares some secrets of having a well-behaved dog at Puppy Training.
วันเสาร์ที่ 15 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2550
How to Help Your Dog Lose Weight
Obesity is on the rise for canines. The reasons for this influx are similar to those that humans experience, too much food and too little exercise. The results of obesity are similar for your canine friends too. Studies reveal that 25% of overweight dogs experience severe joint problems. This effects there daily activities such as walking, standing and sitting. It also increases pain and makes jumping up or down off the bed difficult. If a dog is overweight its lungs cannot function properly- the extra fat pushes against the lungs and diaphragm and makes breathing more difficult. Carrying extra weight decrease ability to preform daily activities. It takes more work to do everything. Body systems have to do more than they were designed for because extra weight places strain on the heart, muscles and respiratory system. Because being overweight causes daily tasks to be more difficult and causes more pain, dogs can become more irritable. Dogs who are overweight have a shorter life span and a lower quality of life. However, there are several things that a pet owner can do to help their animals shed the pounds and live a longer, happier life.
Assessing Your Dog
One way to get an idea if your dog is overweight is by checking their ribs. The ribs should not be visible as they stand, but still detectable when you touch them or when they move (such as jumping in the air to catch a Frisbee). If you cannot feel your dogs ribs, they are probably overweight. The first and for most important measure though, is to take your dog to their veterinarian. Your dog should be seen on a yearly basis for a routine check up. One reason why visiting your veterinarian is so important is that some dogs do not look overweight. Large dogs can especially hide weight well. Your veterinarian will be able to decide if your dog is overweight and why. To help your veterinarian keep a record of what you are doing with your dog before you go. Record your dogs patterns such as sleeping, eating and exercise. In some cases weight issues might be due to medical conditions, such a thyroid problems, verses overeating and under exercising.
Feeding
Dog's have a strong need for affection. One reason dogs overeat is that pet owners use food as an easy way to show their affection. It is not recommended to do this. Using food as a means of reward trains your dog to seek food for affection. This adds to their weight gain and all the other associated problems. Instead, fill their need for attention with games, petting and playing or get a new toy or go for a walk. Habits are hard to break, so here are few tips to help you. Do not leave food out all day. Set a schedule and a location to eat. One meal per day (or two small ones) is all that a dog needs. Also, one day each week with no food will help burn excess fat which they have stored in their bodies. Dogs are trained in behavior. If they beg at the table and someone gives them food, they learn that begging results in getting what they want. To help change this pattern feed your dog before you eat and keep them in another room while you have dinner. After, take them out for a walk or to play a game so they feel loved and get the attention they need. Once new patterns have been decided upon make sure everyone in the family is on board. Otherwise someone might feel "sorry" for the begging dog and give them "just a little something" and this will slow down or prevent your dog's weight loss, especially if that "little something" is every day. Meet as a family to discuss the need for changes in your dog's diet and how your animal will be effected if you don't. This will help everyone understand why and help them keep the new rules.
Excercise
The enthusiasm for new changes might cause over doing exercise at first, but it is important not to do this. Start slowly, for just a few minutes a couple times a day. This will be sufficient at first and then you can slowly increase their activity. Encourage your dog to move around the house with you. Movement frequently and throughout the day is essential. If you take your dog out for a hard run to get him "in shape" it might do more harm than good. Especially when no exercise has been implemented in his routine before. A nice, leisurely walk is sufficient each day and then a couple of times a day as directed by your veterinarian. Another way to get movement is by playing games with your dog. As your dog increases in strength and endurance playing fetch is fun for the dog and helps them get in more activity. Follow your veterinarian's plan and keep appointments. This is especially important if the weight loss is significant.
Loving your pet is doing what is best for them. Increasing their activity and reducing their treats and table scraps will help them become their ideal weight. Your dog will move easier and breath lighter and you can sleep better knowing their health is on the right track. Organization ท ASPCA American Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals needs your help with disaster relief. ท PetFinder.com Dog rescue program to find dogs that meet your family. About Author :
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